Givenchy
Autumn/Winter 1999-2000
特別企画1999秋冬プレタポルテパリ・コレクション
Paris Prêt-à-porter Collections 1999-2000 Autumn-Winter
June 1999
High Fashion No.267
Photography by Shin Shin and Koichiro Matsui
Report by Ikuko Fujii, Misako Tamagawa, and Naoko Ikuta
テクノ素材
ナイロン、プラスチック、ポリエステル、ライクラ、ＰＶＣ⋯⋯。今シーズンはフューチャリスティックなハイテク素材が人気だ。これらははやりのスポーツウェアからのインスピレーションが強く、インダストリアルな面や医学的な分野からの影響もある。これまでは着心地、耐久性、洗濯など多くの問題があったが、ハイテクノロジーによってクオリティがよくなり、着やすく作りやすいものになってきた。テクノファブリックと呼ばれ、タウンやおしゃれなラインにまで登場した。
Techno Fabric
Nylon, plastic, polyester, Lycra, PVC... Futuristic high-tech materials are popular this season. They are heavily inspired by popular sportswear, with influences from the industrial and medical fields as well. Until now, there were many problems with comfort, durability, and washing, but high technology has improved the quality and made it easier to wear and produce. Called techno fabric, it has appeared in town and fashionable lines.
チープシックな毛皮
アンチファーの運動は相変わらず続いているが、ヨーロッパの冬に毛皮は欠かせない。目立たなく毛皮を着るために裏に毛皮を張ったり、裏が毛皮のムートンがよく着られている。今シーズンはリーズナブルなエスプリのものが現われている。’70年のヒッピー時代にはやった縮れ毛のモンゴリアンラム、ラビット、ポニー⋯⋯。リュックスなミンクやフォックスもあるが、わざわざ毛を刈り込んだミンクなど、高価さを目立たせず軽くチープシックな雰囲気に。
Cheap Chic Fur
The anti-fur movement continues as usual, but fur is an essential part of the European winter. In order to wear fur inconspicuously, it is often worn with fur or shearling on the lining. This season, reasonable esprit items are appearing. From the 1970s hippie era, curly Mongolian lamb, rabbit, and pony... Luxurious mink and fox are also available, but the mink with its hair trimmed deliberately gives a light and cheap chic atmosphere without showing off its high price.
クチュール ジバンシィー
アレキサンダー マックイーン
ウィンナワルツに乗って発表されたコレクションは映画「2001年宇宙の旅」（’68作）の監督で、先日逝去したスタンリー・キューブリックにささげられた。得意なテーラードのパンツスーツやコート、ジオメトリックカットのドレスなどクラシックな作品を主に、コンピューターの電子回路柄を描いたスーツやジャケットなど未来的モードがまじる。シルバーメタルやプラスチックを服の部分にも取り入れて。
Couture Givenchy
Alexander McQueen
Launched on the Viennese waltz, the collection was dedicated to Stanley Kubrick, the director of the movie "2001: A Space Odyssey" ('68), who recently passed away. Classic pieces such as tailored suit pants, coats, and geometric cut dresses, which are his specialty, were mixed with futuristic fashion such as suits and jackets with computer electronic circuit patterns. Silver metal and plastic are also incorporated into the clothing.
Givenchy Fall 1999 Ready-to-Wear Collection
February 27, 1999
Vogue
Report by Laird Borrelli-Persson
Curiosity, and fear, of the future was very much in the air when Alexander McQueen presented his Fall 1999 fin de siècle collection for Givenchy. Y2K had been generating lots of column inches, as is British “enfant terrible” McQueen, who was shaking up the French house of Givenchy, which for so long was associated with elegance, Audrey Hepburn, and the classic LBD.
McQueen opened his collection with a laser show, and sent Tron-inspired models in what one observer described as “android couture” down a silvery mirrored runway. Embellishments, embroidered and printed, took the form of circuit boards. Glow-in-the-dark looks added drama to the show, as did the light-up finale pieces. These were made of molded clear plastic “vac-formed from plaster body casts” and fitted out with battery-powered, “programmed flashing LEDs.” The only thing missing in this bright picture of the future was shades.
