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Rick Owens, Autumn/Winter 2002-2003

 

Rick Owens
Autumn/Winter 2002-2003
SPARROWS

 

MUSIC

  • Mass Production, by Iggy Pop

  • Adagietto (Sehr langsam) from Symphony No. 5 in C-Sharp Minor, by the Berlin Philharmonic & Herbert von Karajan

  • Sick Things, by Alice Cooper

  • For Those About to Rock (We Salute You), by Godflesh

FINALE

  • Mass Production, by Iggy Pop

 

Front Row

February 5, 2002
The New York Times
Written by Cathy Horyn

The Ones to Watch

It's not exactly a horse race, but the fall women's collections in New York next week (about 16 shows a day) bring out the punters in those who look at clothes (about 900 outfits a day) for a living. So whom do people want to see?

“The hottest guy is, and has been, Rick Owens,” said Catherine Dietlein, a fashion scout for retailers. Mr. Owens, who is based in Los Angeles, makes clothes that Ms. Dietlein describes as a cross between Adrian and Marlon Brando. Linda Dresner, who carries his clothes at her Park Avenue store, calls his style -- long bias skirts, washed leather jackets with elongated sleeves -- “intellectual bohemian.” Still unclear? Ms. Dresner added: “He's one of my top resources now. I like to wear it, and I like to sell it.”

Mr. Owens, who is having his first runway show here, turns out to be high on the list of a number of retailers, including Sarah Hailes, an owner of Kirna Zabête in SoHo. There are bigger names, like Nicolas Ghesquiere of Balenciaga, and, of course, stalwarts like Ralph Lauren and Michael Kors. Nobody is ignoring them, least of all stores with acreage of real estate and magazines with acreage of advertising space. […]

 

Rick Owens: FALL 2002 READY-TO-WEAR

February 13, 2002
Vogue
Written by Janet Ozzard
Photography by Brian Edwards

Rick Owens' show was part of An American View, sponsored by STYLE.com and Vogue.

Los Angeles-based designer Rick Owens was supposed to make his New York debut with his Spring show, but cancelled after the September 11 terrorist attacks. Today he presented a Fall collection entitled "Sparrow" that showed the technical skill and romantic-goth vision that's won him a loyal—and burgeoning—fan base. "We've carried him for the last five years, and our business just keeps growing," said Ed Burstell, vice president and general manager of Henri Bendel. "It's a cult; women love the way he fits the body."

The mood of Owens' presentation was somber—a dark, raw space and a sound track of Alice Cooper and Iggy Pop—but the clothes were gently sexy and even cozy. Not one for color (despite his indigenous climate), Owens worked in grays, chalky white, black and taupe. Long clinging dresses were paired with fuzzy ankle-length sweater coats, while soft, baggy corduroy pants looked great with the distressed leather jackets the designer is known for. Judging by a black corduroy tuxedo jacket, Owens can do traditional tailoring, but his real love is innovative draping.

Owens pays as much attention to the back of a garment as its front, creating fishtail trains and clever details, like an unexpected hood made from a swell of fabric. Most outfits were topped by a monkish balaclava helmet, emphasizing the elongated, flowing silhouette and lending a cultish, otherworldly air to the proceedings.

 

World Collections
2002-2003 Autumn & Winter: Paris, Milano, London, New York
2002-2003秋冬:パリ、ミラノ、ロンドン、ニューヨーク・コレクション。

June 2002
High Fashion No.285
Report and text by Teruyo Mori
Photography by Kei Taniguchi and Sangen

ファッション通の間で人気上昇中のロサンジェルスのデザイナー、待望の本格的ニューヨーク・デビューコレクション。西海岸のデザイナーには珍しくパリ的なアーティスティックな感覚を持っているといわれ、BGMもアリス・クーパーやイギー・ポップとダウンタウン風だが、アメリカンスポーツウェアのクラシック、マッカーデルの影響が見られたコレクション。コート、スカート、パンツなど流れるようなラインにこだわったカッティングや布使いが印象的で今後の活躍が期待できる。

The long-awaited full-fledged New York debut collection of this Los Angeles designer, whose popularity is on the rise among fashion connoisseurs. He is said to have a Parisian artistic flair, which is rare among West Coast designers. While the background music was also downtown style with Alice Cooper and Iggy Pop, the collection showed the influence of McCardell, a classic of American sportswear. The cutting and use of fabrics with an emphasis on flowing lines in coats, skirts, pants, etc. are impressive, and we can expect great things from this brand in the future.

 

CFDA AWARDS 2002

June 5, 2002
Vogue

NARCISO RODRIGUEZ took the men's prize and newcomer Rick Owens won the much-coveted Perry Ellis Award For Emerging Talent in New York on Monday night. At 40-years-old, Californian "newcomer" Owens appeared overwhelmed to have bagged his prize. "To be nominated is an honour," he said. "To win is incredible." […]