Y’s
Autumn/Winter 2004-2005
Yohji Yamamoto Collections
2014
Yamamoto & Yohji
Published by Rizzoli
The end of the ugly aesthetic
March 4, 2004
International Herald Tribune
Written by Suzy Menkes
[…] Yohji Yamamoto's Y's collection was frustrating in a different way. It was not hard to grasp because the graphic red, white and black clothes, kilt skirts with pleats stopping shorter at one side than the other, masculine tailored coats and motorcycle jackets printed "Moto Yohji" were fun but familiar. Yet in this commercial and well-presented collection, with its groups of crisp white shirts and mannish tailoring, there was but a faint reflection of another Yohji — the poet of black and sweet flower prints who had presented his main line during January's couture. Y's was just fine. But it is not the A team. […]
Fashion Anthology
March 1, 2004
Getty Images
WWD
Photography by Giovanni Giannoni
2004-2005 autumn/winter WORLD COLLECTIONS: PARIS
June 2004
High Fashion No.297
Photography by Shin Shin and Masatoshi Uenaka
Report & text by Misako Tamagawa (B.P.B. Paris) and Ikuko Fujii
アストル・ピアソラのタンゴにのせ、アシメトリーなデザインを赤と黒でジオメトリックに強調したアイテム群からスタート。グラフィックな処理を施した赤の迷彩柄、払い下げの軍用テント地を使用したアーミーパンツには燕尾ジャケットをコーディネート。スーツやコートにはよりなめらかで軽い、スーパーフラノやスーパーギャバなどハイクオリティな素材を使用しつつ、ファーや大きなポンポンを加えて、ドラマティックな作品に仕上げていた。派手なロゴ入りライダーズのYAMAMOTOの中に見られるMOTO（＝バイク）の偶然の一致が楽しい。
Starting with Astor Piazzolla's tango, the collection features asymmetrical designs accentuated geometrically in red and black. A red camouflage pattern with a graphic treatment and army pants made from discarded military tent material are coordinated with a swallowtail jacket. The suits and coats were made from smooth, lightweight, high-quality materials such as super flannel and super gabarbine, while adding fur and large pom-poms to create dramatic pieces. It's fun to see the coincidence of the MOTO (= motorcycle) seen in the flashy logo of Riders' YAMAMOTO.
Y's: FALL 2004 READY-TO-WEAR
August 6, 2021
Vogue
Written by Mark Holgate
Photography by Marcio Madeira
Heavy cotton drill parkas? Check. Huge cargo pants? Check. More than a little noir? Check. Season after season, there are certain elements that Yohji Yamamoto includes in his Y's collection. The only things missing this time around were the enormous chunky knits that have been so appealing to him in the past. (Though he did manage to slip a few into the proceedings—layered, if you can imagine, over short military surplus-style anoraks.) The designer also gave a nod to both his past and his present: the former via some Edwardian-era tailcoats with a complicated arrangement of buttons and the latter with the very Y-3-like, sporty biker jackets in a mix of neoprene and leather. Just in case those assembled didn't quite register the provenance of the zippered jackets, he dropped a heavy hint by emblazoning their backs with the logo "YamaMOTO." The designer's usual subtlety had obviously roared off somewhere on a 50-cc engine.
That's not to say that everything was familiar: Yamamoto gave a contemporary spin to some khaki cotton suits by pairing them with rockabilly-style crepe-soled shoes. And, in a season where the chiffon blouse has been reinterpreted over and over again, there was something alluring about his cool, crisp cotton shirts—reworked to perfection with panels of fabric that looked like deconstructed bows affixed to the collar or the cuffs.
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